Still more rain and chilly. As it turned out, the “most beautiful coffeehouse in the world” was restricted to Hotel guests for breakfast with it opening to the public later in the morning. It is spectacular although I am sure other places have since created one to make the same claim.

We took Uber to the Museum of Fine arts in another of the situations where the building itself was almost as spectacular as the collection. It was quite extensive with one “ancient level” containing items from the former Mycenean and Etruscan cultures, moving into Greek and Roman and quite a collection from different Egyptian dynasties. Paintings and some architectural items from the 1400s onward were a nice mix as well.

The pub recommended by the photography guy Hubby follows was for lunch after and we did the fish and chips. Not bad, but the portion was so huge we could have split one. Interestingly, Mexican food is highly popular as are burgers and BBQ. Not sure if their definitions are the same nor exactly what the connection is. However, I’d forgotten two of the major Hollywood studios were founded by Hungarians way back and lots of movies are still shot there. In a number of areas, scenes can be done that look a lot like Paris for example and it’s considerably less expensive than actually shooting in France. So, with a long connection, that might be where the love of burgers started.

Anyway, between a 2:30 a.m. wake-up necessary for Monday and because we were staying at the Hotel we did the fancy dinner as out last meal in Budapest. Hugh went with the goulash as a starter, then I’m going blank on his main. I had a shrimp and tomatoes in what was  garlic broth – interesting and good for starter and steak with green peppercorn sauce. It was not a true “steak au poivre”, but still delicious. In trying to wean ourselves off desserts, we did only coffee after.

No issues with flights getting home. Twenty hours in transit, so have built today in with as few tasks as possible.

Viking continues to demonstrate why their service is worth the cost. Twenty-eight of us are staying at the Ananatara New York Palace Hotel in the City Center (Pest side). It is five-star and all that comes with that. They transferred our luggage with a guide and he is on their desk here for several hours a day. Since we couldn’t check into the rooms until 3:00, he took us on a walk to orient us and the rain held off until evening. Turns out Uber works well here and we took that to the Central Market because it closes at 3:00 on Saturday and isn’t open on Sunday. Like all such places, it was in a great old building like a huge train station and had all sorts of stalls. Foods, crafts, and so forth. There was a cafeteria and we decided to go for it. We had a “layered potato” which was thin sliced potatoes, thin sliced sausage and some kind of sauce baked together. We had goulash and there was pork version that was actually a soup. That combined with a local draft beer made for what we think was authentic fare.

We didn’t buy anything because our guy had suggested another place to get the few things I am looking for. We walked back in order to see more of the City and ran across some interesting parts. The guide had a sheet of restaurant recommendations and the one of KonovyBar sounded intriguing. It is a small place – seats only 32, but since we wanted to go at 7:00, they could fit us in. The room has one wall completely devoted to books; the front wall is half devoted and the half wall dividing the two sides is also a book shelf. Each night they feature a menu from a book – last night was from the French classic, The Little Prince. Hugh almost went with that and did the sea trout as a starter and the duck breast instead. I had the local ham and some sort of whipped cheese with marinated grape sauce and steak with potatoes. Their menu is limited although there was something in all the basic foods. Unfortunately, the steak was medium rare (common for Europe) and the potato presentation was lovely, but a bit underdone. The sauce for the meat helped make up for it and quite frankly I had enough food. We did pass on dessert as we have had so much of that on the ship.

More rain and cold today so we’ll Uber later to a museum.

In discussing the planned trip, we did say the weather in Europe is usually lovely this time of year, but it can turn bad. Yesterday was raining and the temperature dropped. Now in all fairness, it apparently didn’t really rain much until later although the temp was down. We decided (along with quite a few others) to tuck in with reading, and so forth. Hubby did venture out for an hour or so in the afternoon while I took a nap. He made it to the park where Europe’s oldest Ferris wheel is still in operation and only got a little light rain on his way back. I later decided to go up on the top deck for fresh air. That was in fact when rain picked up so I just stepped out onto a covered veranda for a few minutes.

We set sail a bit after five for Budapest and unfortunately today might not be much better. We’ll see. Dinner last night was extra special as chateaubriande. It wasn’t served traditionally of course as that would be really difficult for a crowd. The steak was tender and delicious and the bernaise sauce was excellent as were the potatoes dauphinoise. For a change, I didn’t care for any of the desserts and was able to pass on that.

In a city rich in history, I had not realized the Hapsburg dynasty lasted for more than 600 years, not that Austria offered to become neutral after WW II. We did a bus, then walking segment of the center. Unlike other monarchies, the Hapsburgs built new wings to their palace to end up with a sprawling, 1000+ room complex (might be more). There is a summer palace as well, although we didn’t opt for that excursion. The Saint Stephan’s Cathedral was our end point with lots of shopping, coffee houses, ticket office for music concerts and so on. While we have no shortage of coffee and desserts on-board, having a coffee in Vienna itself and the famous sacher torte is just one of those things. The dense chocolate cake is if course slightly different depending on who makes it. We did split a piece.

We came back to the ship for lunch. tried a little rest, then went strolling along the pier and up a bit. This is a major river cruising pier with a combination of local sight-seeing boats and those like us. I think the one most distant we saw was from Rotterdam. We did not book an excursion for today and unfortunately, weather has turned against us.Not surprisingly, the regional dish for last night was weiner schnitzel with warm German potato salad and a cranberry sauce. The sauce was something different and yes, dessert was sacher torte. I did choose the caramel ice cream and had two bites of Hubby’s torte.

The plan was walk/use the U-bahn (subway) to go to a couple of the many museums. Aside from rain, the temperature is supposed to reach only 55 degrees. We wouldn’t mind taking a cab, but what we’re not sure about is getting a cab back. When I was in Paris a few years back with my sister, I was surprised to learn how difficult getting a cab could be and I’m not sure I want to take that chance here. We will have leisurely breakfast and then decide.

Having made our way into Austria, the tour of Gottweig Abbey was very enjoyable. Surprisingly from a geographic perspective, the Wachau Valley is able to produce not only grapes for wine and apples, but also apricots for a certain number of months per year. The abbey, founded 900 years ago, (Benedictine order), at some point started cultivating these and became famous for the fruit, their own wine and a special dumpling they make. We chose the added segment of the excursion to watch a demonstration of how the dumpling is made and have one with a cup of coffee. It is basically a whole apricot surrounded in dough, boiled, then drained, rolled in a breadcrumb topping and served with apricot sauce. The taste is a lot like a deep dish fruit pie.

The abbey grounds are quite large with multiple buildings. Only three are original as a fire destroyed most of them in the 1700s. A few were added even later. The church is of course magnificent and the library (not accessible) has never been wired for electricity. With over 150,000 items, the monk work only in natural light as they don’t want o risk another fire. High atop the hills, the view is wonderful too.

We returned to the boat where we left almost immediately to make it to Vienna. We will be here three nights as about half the passengers opted to attend an evening Mozart concert . We go on a “panoramic City tour” this morning, and have the rest of the day and all tomorrow. I did not book us on their other excursions here so we will plan out what we are going to do tomorrow. I think maybe we won;t go anywhere extra this afternoon; we’ll see.

Oh, we also had a demonstration of making apple streudel from the pastry chef yesterday so it became a “pastry day”. The dinner specialty was herbed pork tenderloin which we both went for. We did share a carrot cake slice rather than each have one.

This is a long link; you can probably do another link and find something shorter..

https://visitworldheritage.com/en/eu/g%C3%B6ttweig-abbey-%E2%80%93-the-austrian-montecassino/176bf525-ebbe-4cc3-a4db-989158b4c760

We did not go off on our own as planned and did the organized walking tour again instead. Mother Nature split the difference and it was light rain which increased a bit although manageable between having brought my really good rain jacket and the big umbrella provided by the ship. Completely different topography in Passau with up and down on wet cobblestones. I was able to look around, but did spend a lot of it watching my footing. While this area was of course part of the Roman Empire, they have also found artifacts dating back 7,000 years of river dwelling peoples. We did do lunch on the boat as we were taking the afternoon trip to the farm. Fish and chips for a bit of comfort food.

The terminology for the afternoon trip is the only thing so far I raised my eyebrows at once we arrived. It was pleasant, but anyone who has lived in Germany knows what an actual “beer fest” is. Anyway, it was a very short bus ride and the 300 acre farm was established in 1642 (something like that) and has been in a family ever since. The current family took it over in 1890. The land includes a forest area and they have their own sawmill. They own a few horse and board others – 50 right now, They built a smaller and large riding hall where they do dressage as well. One of the old hay lofts in another building was converted into an event space. We ended in a rustic hunting lodge where they tapped a small keg of local beer, served classic big German pretzels with some specialty-made cream cheese spreads and ham. There was of course the accordion player and the owner then came and did a traditional festival dance and cajoled some of the passengers into joining him. He spoke of the farm and it was all very pleasant for what it was. Oh, no more rain until we headed back to the boat, and that was light and we set off for sail again soon after.

Since it was our last night in Germany, there was a big buffet with all sorts of regional fare instead of ordering from the menu. Sauerbraten, roasted pigs knuckles, a type of chicken cutlet, wurst, red cabbage, sauerkraut, and so forth.

There was a question about how flexible Viking is with passengers doing things not as part of their planned excursions. I’m not sure yet as today will be the first day we decide to wander close to the ship this morning because we have the afternoon excursion booked.

Anyway, yesterday was a walking tour of Regensburg. The “barbarian” Germanic tribes were across the river as the Romans pushed their northern border and built a large fortress 2,000 years ago. Housing a 6,000 strong legion with all the support needed, shops, etc., were also established outside the gates. After the fall of the Empire different events occurred, but because of the importance of the Danube, Regensburg became a prosperous city in the Middle Ages. In carefully walking the cobblestone streets – some narrow alleys – you see and hear history of buildings and events taking place in them before Columbus even came to America.

The tour wasn’t far from the ship and so after it ended, we wandered and went back to some spots Hubby wanted to get better photos of. There was a museum of Bavaria (that’s the state we are in) and a cafe with it. We had lunch; a local sausage and the wonderful German potato salad for me and a schnitzel and fries for Hugh. I am sticking with wine and saving my beer allowance for later today. Hubby is of course doing the local beer. We went through the museum which was well done and then I needed a nap. Apparently my body wasn’t as ready to readjust as I thought. or perhaps three hours of mostly walking was a bit more tiring than I expected.

We had dinner with one of the couples we’d dined with the first night – they settled in Auburn after retirement. Hubby did the Regional specialty again, but it started with a salad including beef tartare and that wasn’t happening for me. His roast pork was good, but my grilled halibut was lovely, too. I will try to only share a dessert tonight – the apple tart was too much to pass up and I’m not sure exactly what Hubby’s was – some kind of cake, I think.

Oh, we set off to new destination around 5:30 last night and it was pleasant sitting on the veranda with a mug of tea.